THE AFRICA HOUSE - AN AFRICAN DREAM

Sir Stewart moved downstairs to these rooms when he became frail.



Finally a dream realised - we visit "The Africa House".

The imposing approach to this magnificent manor house.

The chapel which is being lovingly restored by Jo and Charlie using bricks and tiles manufactured on the estate. The diningroom table is an exact replica of the diningroom table at Bingham's Melcombe (Lorna's home in Dorset).

Mark had arranged for us to visit "The Africa House". We were met by Bright, the official guide, who welcomed us and invited us for a wonderful tea with freshly baked banana bread. Jo Harvey then took us on a wonderful wander through this marvellous residence of the late Sir Stewart Gore-Brown which she and Charlie are lovingly restoring paying attention to every detail and using materials which were used in the original structure. The bricks are made on the estate. Apart from the "house" Jo and Charlie have a large herd of Boran cattle, a small Jersey herd, sheep, chickens and game. I was able to fill Jo in on some of the history of Lorna's (Bosworth Smith) side of the family.

We took a loop road via the Lake on our return to Kapisha Hot Springs. During the afternoon we relaxed and some of us enjoyed the hot springs which are at a constant temperature of 40C.

We had a couple of "Mosis" at the Lodge before returning to the campsite for a braai.

It was a very special day.

An African Dream realized - Shiwa Ngandu

Transport in Africa

Today is a border crossing day i.e. from Tanzania to Zambia. Rex had warned that this could be a long delay so we had set aside the day. The border fees were numerous and all had to be paid in different currencies and at different places. We arrived at the border post at about 09H45 where a person who Rex knew from previous trips undertook the task of facilitator for our party. The crossing cost in the region of R830 (facilitator fee ($20 NEGOTIABLE, Road tax $30, carbon tax KW 150 000, further facilitator fee ZKW 50 000 and council tax ZKW 15000). The payments were made behind that buildings in that shed etc. Two and a half hours later we crossed into Zambia.

The road from the border to Shiwa was rather uninteresting except for being riddled with potholes. Finally there was the sign off to the right- Shiwa Ngandu / Kapisha Hot Springs - our African Dream was becoming a reality.

We arrived at Kapisha Hot Springs at about 3.30pm and were met by Mark Harvey. and pitched camp on the banks of the river. A perfect setting. The "donkey" boiler produced wonderfully hot water.

That evening we had drinks and a light meal at the Lodge (Mosi beers R20 each)

Kapisha camping $10 pp

Distance travelled today 425kms.

The last night in Tanzania

Left our riverside camp at 8am, via Iringa Makambako and Mbeya to a lovely lodge - Utengule Coffee Lodge - and campsite with tennis courts, bar and restaurant. Walked to the coffee plantation from the camp site. We camped on the helipad. Ablutions very comfortable. Had our last Kili/Serengeti beers in the well appointed bar at the lodge. Camping fee $10 pp.

Distance travelled 366 kms

Campsite with a difference

Heading South now. Cross into Zambia and Kapisha tomorrow. We lost one day as we were advised not to take the Dodomo road so we went round.

This was probably a wise decision as the Serengeti and the crater had taken its toll on the vehicles. We are now on our third fuel

filter. We went through baobab valleys and mountains, we are quite high up now, so it is much cooler.

The kids are recognise the flags we have put on the car and run along chanting Bafana Bafana. Some of them even know the names of the team members. Good luck to Ghana.

We stopped off at Arusha to replenish supplies again. Camped at Segera - probably the least desirable campsite we stayed at the whole trip and one we will not forget. The "campsite" was at the back of the "lodge" and we decided th to opt for their "a la carte" menu - as there were no facilities for us to wash dishes etc. and the water was a problem (no pressure). As we arrived a guy caught and slaughtered a number of chickens (presumably for our meal!) but when we arrived at the table we were told that the chicken was not ready yet so we had to settle for goat stew with a strange selection of vegetables, no dessert and coffee but no milk ($10 per head). The watch dogs decided that Ian's shoes (which he left at the bottom of the ladder) were rather tasty so he now has a pair of Segera designer sandals.

Distance travelled 511 kms

SEGERA - CHARLINZE - MOROGORO - IRINGA

We had an early start today as there was not much to delay us in Segera.

The Bush Baby is still not happy with the fuel. We stopped at Chalinze and some tinkering seemed to sort out the problem. Rex found that he had a ruptured water hose so that was also repaired.

Today's trip took us through stunning scenery - the tower

ing Uluguru and Udzungwa Mountains , majestic baobabs,

the Mikumi National Park festooned with the odd "turtle" (upturned truck) en route.

We camped at Riverside Camp near Iringa again.

Distance travelled 540 kms

The crater and Serengeti

Wednesday 23rd June - Friday 25th June

The Melcks and Watsons entered Ngorongora Crater at 6am. Required to secure guide to go into crater but as we did not have space for a guide "shared" a guide with other vehicles. The crater is mind blowing! Littered with lions and a huge variety of game in large numbers. Left the crater at 2pm and on to Serengeti. Tanzania is very "economical" on signs and Serengeti is no different. On to the Serengeti migration which has started and there is just wall to wall wildebeest and zebra. Roads are VERY corrugated and have had an action packed couple of days. The facilities in the camps we have found to be very basic and the charges are extremely high, but suppose it is a once in a lifetime thing. The camp (Mpipi) for the next two nights is very bush like, with very little in the way of facilities.

Returned to Kudu camp on Friday afternoon and met up again with the Bosch family. John had taken Gavin to Mount Kilamanjaro International airport as Gavin had to return to Perth for business reasons.

Travelled 680 kms.

Total cost for Ngorongora, (twice as have to pass through it to get back to Kudu Camp), entering crater, two nights camping at Serengeti US $900 per couple.

Cheeky minx

Kili is still not revealing herself. Drizzly again this morning.

Spent many hours in Arusha trying to get internet to work . Very frustrating. Replenished fresh food and now have fresh bread. Shoprite in Arusha very much like checkers in SA. Land Rover much more jacked up in Arusha and we bought another diesel filter to be on the safe side.

We are just outside the crater now and camped at Kudu Lodge (Elevation 1539m) at Karatu . We are looking to leave at 4am tomorrow to get to the gate of Ngorogoro National Park when it opens; so its early to bed tonight. Travelled 276 kms today.

"Do not take this road to el Karama" (Chris Harvie) is proving to be very useful.

Kili in our sights

Farewell to the coast Maasai youth

We broke camp at 7am this morning and then left onto the open road leaving the sprawl of Dar behind. Warm and sunny. Hoping to camp further North than our schedule. Stopped at Pangani River Campsite - quite pleasant but water level of river very high after recent rains. Another couple camped there and said that there was a resident crocodile - perhaps that frightened some of our party!

We are a hop and a skip from Kili but she is under cloud and is not willing to reveal herself.

Hopefully where we have stopped now will be where we stay for the night, the Marunga hotel, also has a campsite. It is 6.30 pm and we have travelled 570 kms today. (Elevation 1163m)

Had a wonderful meal and now tucked up in bed. Quite a lot cooler here than what we have been used to over the last few days.

Zanzibar by day - 1 day!

What a fantastic day. Picked up by a taxi at 6am. Across the harbour by a ferry. Then a 5 seater plane to Zanzibar to visit spice farm. Rained while we were there, but always warm. Fascinating industry. Then off to the beach resort, Stone Town, then another resort before back to the airport where we left on a 12 seater plane back to the queue for the ferry, and then back into camp by 8:15pm, so quite an action packed day. Music now playing from both sides of the camp so do not know what sleep we will be getting, but as we are so tired, it shouldn't be a problem. Another rest day tomorrow to get ready for the move out on Monday.

Rest day

A lovely rest day today. A little bit of drizzle and this morning but just overcast and warm now. Had a swim - the waves are very gentle here. Looking forward to the Zanzibar trip tomorrow.

THURSDAY JUNE 17th Dar es Salaam

Descending towards the coast.

Buses loaded to the hilt - if not inside on top!

We returned to Iringa to recharge our vehicles and our wallets. From Iringa traversed spectacular scenery as we dropped down through the mountains towards the sea. The road runs through the Mikumi National Park where we had our first glimpse of the Masaai Giraffe in the distance.

Traffic through Dar has to be seen to be believed. We opted to give the ferry across the harbour a miss and take the road round the city to Sunset Beach (our campsite) to the south of Dar es Salaam. It took us an hour and a half to travel 13km. We have a rest day coming up tomorrow. Looking forward to it.

We passed many similar casualties

Dar es Salaam

Camped at Sunrise Beach Resort south of Dar es Salaam.

Distance travelled today 534kms

The last day in the Warm Heart of Africa - Malawi

Kids selling balls along route made from local rubber.

Glorious morning again this morning.

Swam in the lake first thing and then having emptied our jerry cans set off hunting for diesel en route to the border.

Found the diesel - some at Nkhete Bay and some more in Mzuzu - so we are ok until after the border now. The others in the group are getting low on local currency so we all need to find a town where we can get to an exchange. Such stunning scenery here in the mountains. Driving along the shore line of the lake and the scenery is simply stunning. Feeling great today though after a great sleep last night.

220km to the border. We decide not to cross the border as Tanzania is one hour ahead. We have another night to enjoy the lake. We are camping in the grounds of a very new upmarket lodge as the camp is not yet built and have the use of two rooms. Nice warm and sunny weather.

Mikoma Beach Lodge

Distance travelled today 336kms