Nsobe camp to Forest Inn

We left Nsobe camp at around 8am and a track led us through many villages to Chiundaponde - it ws very slow going and we covered 45kms in 2 hours. The scenery was very interesting as we travelled through open grassland, swamps, streams, and wetlands. We passed through the Kasanka National Park but did not see much in the way of game.

We stopped off briefly at Lake Waka Waka - it had been a possible stop over point in our original plans. It was a very pleasant campsite on the lakeshore and the facilities were very comfortable.

A few kilometres before joining the main T2 road there was a turnoff to Livingstone's Memorial and Pam and John, Ian and Gwen decided to take this detour to the memorial (a distance of some 22 kms). The memorial site was well kept and a very knowledgeable guide filled us in on this, the site where Livingstone had died. His heart was buried here under a mpunda tree and after his body had been embalmed his attendants carried his body to the coast from whence it was shipped to the UK. The tree was later cut down and in 1902 a permanent memorial was constructed. It was a worthwhile detour.

We then joined the T2 and travelled via Serenje and Mkushi to Forest Inn just outside Mkushi arriving at about 6pm.

The Forest Inn was very comfortable and offered a wide variety of accommodation from cabins, to camping. The campsite was grassed and had trees, a lapha with plugpoints and a braai area and the ablution facilities were extensive. Ian and Gwen went across to the lodge for a Mosi and met up with a couple who were farming in the area and had children at schools in Natal. A small world.

Camping cost ZKW 25000pp.

Distance travelled today 409kms.

Another African Dream - the elusive Shoebill

Still searching and then there it was - the SHOEBILL - not a beauty in bird terms by any means but a very big box to tick.



We return to shore after a once in a life time experience - seeing the elusive Shoebill was indeed a bonus. The magnificent Wattled Cranes were present on the swamps in their hundreds. The magnificent sunset was a perfect end to a perfect day.

We were up early and anxious in our search for the Shoebill. A member of the Nsobe Community camp was our guide and we set off at 8 am and an 8km drive found us at the swamps proper where we would take boats to Shoebill Island. En route we passed a host of Wattled Cranes and masses of Lechwe. We went in two boats with two oarsmen each. At Shoebill camp we were met by the warden and after obtaining his permission went in search of the Shoebill. Finally after our two oarsmen had waded through the swamps and returned not having sighted the elusive bird we proceeded further and then saw one fly off and our disappointment grew. Then as we rounded a bend there was one amongst the reeds but very close to a pod of hippo preventing us from getting too close. Something disturbed the hippo and they lumbered off into the reeds and the Shoebill then flew across to an open area where we were able to have a much closer look at him - a rather ugly bird who does not sport any special plumage but a real box to tick. Some avid birders can spend weeks in the swamps and still the Shoebill evades them so we felt very privileged having only spent three hours on the swamps before sighting him/her. The swamps are a birders' paradise and we saw countless birds of every shape and size - I recall Johanta saying that we saw over 60 different species.

Rex's dream now becomes a reality

We returned to the camp in the early afternoon and were not up too late after our exciting day.

Farewell to Shiwa En route to Shoebill - the Boschs' African Dream

Before leaving Shiwa estate we drove up to the site of Sir Stewart Gore-Brown, as well as John and Lorna Harvey. The view was stunning.



We stopped off in Mpika for fuel and supplies. The road, in the main, was a narrow track winding through numerous villages with manacured gardens but little in the way of crops. There was a large truck delivering bags of mealie meal to homes en route.

The various GPS had "different opinions" as to where the Nsobe Community campsite was. We were forced to turn back (luckily the swamps were dry) as the road came to an abrupt end at about 5.30 pm. Fortunately we saw a feint track off the main track and we entered the Nsobe camp. We were made to feel very welcome and on our arrival the "locals" busied themselves with filling up the 44 gallon drums with hot water for us to have showers and also brought each of us a basin of hot water for us to freshen up. the biggest surprise of all was the ablutions - behind the plastic sheeting enclosure was a real toilet WITH a seat too (both a rarity as we had become accustomed to squat toilets and if one was lucky enough to find a conventional toilet it rarely had a seat).

We arranged to be taken to Shoebill island the following morning.

Having only arrived at the campsite at 6pm we each whipped up an easy meal and turned in soon after we had had our meals as we had an early start in search of the shoebill stork tomorrow.

Distance travelled 320 kms.

Camp fee $17.50 pp (after some negotiation).

A walk to the Chusa waterfall

Kapisha Hot Springs





We woke up to a cool and overcast morning and nothing specific was planned. Ian and Gwen decided to take a picnic and walk to the Chusa waterfall on the Estate - a 15km walk. The weather was perfect for walking. The falls were spectacular and the path meandered through changing scenery. The flowers were very special.

We had sundowners at the lodge before returning to the campsite for a braai. Alta and Johanta had baked delicious loaves of bread which were enjoyed by all.

THE AFRICA HOUSE - AN AFRICAN DREAM

Sir Stewart moved downstairs to these rooms when he became frail.



Finally a dream realised - we visit "The Africa House".

The imposing approach to this magnificent manor house.

The chapel which is being lovingly restored by Jo and Charlie using bricks and tiles manufactured on the estate. The diningroom table is an exact replica of the diningroom table at Bingham's Melcombe (Lorna's home in Dorset).

Mark had arranged for us to visit "The Africa House". We were met by Bright, the official guide, who welcomed us and invited us for a wonderful tea with freshly baked banana bread. Jo Harvey then took us on a wonderful wander through this marvellous residence of the late Sir Stewart Gore-Brown which she and Charlie are lovingly restoring paying attention to every detail and using materials which were used in the original structure. The bricks are made on the estate. Apart from the "house" Jo and Charlie have a large herd of Boran cattle, a small Jersey herd, sheep, chickens and game. I was able to fill Jo in on some of the history of Lorna's (Bosworth Smith) side of the family.

We took a loop road via the Lake on our return to Kapisha Hot Springs. During the afternoon we relaxed and some of us enjoyed the hot springs which are at a constant temperature of 40C.

We had a couple of "Mosis" at the Lodge before returning to the campsite for a braai.

It was a very special day.

An African Dream realized - Shiwa Ngandu

Transport in Africa

Today is a border crossing day i.e. from Tanzania to Zambia. Rex had warned that this could be a long delay so we had set aside the day. The border fees were numerous and all had to be paid in different currencies and at different places. We arrived at the border post at about 09H45 where a person who Rex knew from previous trips undertook the task of facilitator for our party. The crossing cost in the region of R830 (facilitator fee ($20 NEGOTIABLE, Road tax $30, carbon tax KW 150 000, further facilitator fee ZKW 50 000 and council tax ZKW 15000). The payments were made behind that buildings in that shed etc. Two and a half hours later we crossed into Zambia.

The road from the border to Shiwa was rather uninteresting except for being riddled with potholes. Finally there was the sign off to the right- Shiwa Ngandu / Kapisha Hot Springs - our African Dream was becoming a reality.

We arrived at Kapisha Hot Springs at about 3.30pm and were met by Mark Harvey. and pitched camp on the banks of the river. A perfect setting. The "donkey" boiler produced wonderfully hot water.

That evening we had drinks and a light meal at the Lodge (Mosi beers R20 each)

Kapisha camping $10 pp

Distance travelled today 425kms.

The last night in Tanzania

Left our riverside camp at 8am, via Iringa Makambako and Mbeya to a lovely lodge - Utengule Coffee Lodge - and campsite with tennis courts, bar and restaurant. Walked to the coffee plantation from the camp site. We camped on the helipad. Ablutions very comfortable. Had our last Kili/Serengeti beers in the well appointed bar at the lodge. Camping fee $10 pp.

Distance travelled 366 kms